“I am an escapist,” revealed Sabyasachi Mukherjee in a conversation with Mint.
India’s (arguably) most famous designer was talking about how the Italian brand Gucci’s bohemian aesthetic inspires him when it comes to both his fashion and unlived travel plans.
But this comment also highlights the evolution of fashion in modern India — couture was once all about breaking barriers and envisioning something never seen before, but now, it’s a different ball game altogether.
Yes, celebrity fittings are still relevant for a brand’s image, but if you peer behind the curtain, it takes a lot more than just the runway and famous names for a contemporary Indian brand to stay profitable — or even afloat.
Moreover, with a younger, more digitally savvy customer base that has higher expectations and a no-holds-barred approach, designers and brands are being forced to think outside the box and let go of the conventional playbook.
Here’s how they’re doing it.
#1. Beyond the Runway, Designers Are Making Waves in the Wedding Industry
Did you know that the Indian is worth a whopping $130 Billion?
Naturally, the fashion industry has evolved alongside it. Consumers are now looking for a mix of both traditional and modern looks that serve all their needs, and it’s all about blending tradition with modernity.
This is why major designers have captured the market.
Anju Modi told NRI Focus that 50% of her business comes from wedding wear: “Bridal is for one day. What is important is what is before, and after — mehndi, haldi, cocktails, and many more. Brides want customization; we craft according to their physique.”
Award-winning textile designer Gaurang Shah also echoed the same sentiment. He also gets more than 50% of his revenue from bridal sarees, especially because the customisations are a fan-favourite feature of the brand.
Gone are the days of going to just Delhi markets like Chandi Chowk — no shade, though — for all wedding shopping; today, many people in Delhi flock to Mehrauli for the extensive range of designers it houses. You’ll even find cute, eclectic pieces by ristakers like lawyer-turned-designer Aisha Rao at Emporio Mall.
It’s not just big names that are cashing in on brides. Even smaller designers have found a home for themselves in the galiyaans of Shahpur Jat, Hauz Khas, South Extension, and GK.
Alongside this, many brands also target conventions like Bridal Asia due to the immense footfall these events garner, allowing them greater visibility. For instance, designer Gautam Gupta (of the label Asha Gautam) revealed that around 30% of their sales come from these events.
#2. Pret Collections & Fashion for the Masses
Everyone knows Jennifer Lopez’s iconic green dress from Versace — fun fact: it was the very reason Google Images was created in the first place — but not many people know that it was stitched by master kaarigars in Bombay.
In fact, India’s rich history with textiles has been one of the major pride points for our citizens for centuries.
So, it only makes sense for designers and brands to revive this enthusiasm for Indian fashion at scale — by making ready-to-wear collections accessible to a wider section of society.
Back in 2016, Arvind Singhal, chairman of management consulting firm Technopak Advisors, revealed that brands faced a major challenge: escaping the bubble of bridal and wedding wear. “Indian designers have become synonymous with wedding wear and it’s not easy for them to migrate to ready-to-wear,” he told the Economic Times.
Almost a decade later, we can see the transition from bridal wear to pret has become a signature move for many brands.
Sabyasachi released a collection with H&M in 2021, and Anamika Khanna’s AK-OK reinvents what daily wear can look like. Grazia also revealed that corporate investments in fashion brands have escalated in recent years, with Reliance Brands Limited (RBL) acquiring massive stakes in Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Ritu Kumar, and Manish Malhotra.
RBL’s competitor, the Aditya Birla Fashion Retail Limited (ABFRL), also launched TASVA, a men’s wear brand, with Tarun Tahiliani — and the conglomerate owns 80% of the venture.
Some other major brands that have signed on with ABFRL include Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra as well as Masaba Gupta.
#3. Ghar Aaja Pardesi, Tera Designer Bulaaye Re — The NRI Chokehold
The Indian diaspora is the world’s largest, but that doesn’t mean they don’t want what India’s best designers have to offer.
You just need to look at Papa Don’t Preach by Shubhika. The brand’s strong social media presence and embellished looks have become a hit, particularly in Canada, the US, and the Middle East.
It’s hard to ascertain how much of its multi-million dollar revenue stems from Indians living abroad, but everyone knows its aesthetic when they see it — and this level of brand recall is rare even among Indian bigwigs.
Sabyasachi opened his flagship store in New York back in 2023, in the historic Tiffany building on 5th Avenue, in the wake of a strategic partnership with ABFIL, which acquired a 51% stake in the brand in 2021.
Gaurav Gupta has singled himself out as a top Indian designer, and his meticulous pieces have been worn by major celebrities like Cardi B, Adele, Beyonce, and Megan Thee Stallion. Alongside this, he also debuted in Harrods, UK, back in 2024, as well as Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus in the US.
#4. Don’t Forget the Accessories
An outfit isn’t complete without accessories — and designers know this all too well.
Over the last few years, many homegrown labels have expanded beyond clothing, turning accessories into a booming “side hustle.”
That’s why many of them have branched out into the jewellery business, with Sabyasachi’s jewellery business raking in Rs. 150-175 crore annually, and his handbags follow behind — with Rs. 60 crore in sales, as per the Times of India.
Masaba Gupta’s House of Masaba launched a line of gold jewellery in collaboration with Tanishq, and she now sells everything from perfumes to saris under a unified label. Similarly, Anita Dongre’s Pink City jewellery collection has carved out a niche for itself, merging her design language with handcrafted Rajasthani work.
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